Dale Matson
Time marches on. I hiked to the top of Mt. Whitney in 2004.
It was the 100th anniversary of the building of the trail. Mt. Whitney
is the highest mountain in the contiguous U.S. The bad news is it took me 15 hours (three
more hours) this year to complete the 22 mile out and back hike. The good news
is that I didn't have altitude sickness this year. I suppose it IS taller at 14,505’ than it was
in 2004 (14,494’). Maybe that’s why it took longer. Mt. Whitney is an impressive and imposing sight
from the Inyo County permit station on the east side of highway 395. Whitney
rises over two miles above the town of Lone Pine.
Mt. Whitney Viewed From Lone Pine, CA
A day hike is still a three day hike, if you don’t live in the
vicinity of Lone Pine. The Whitney trail requires a specific permit and is
obtained through a reservation lottery. You need to pick up the permit in Lone
Pine by noon the day before the hike. If you pick up the permit as a same day “walk
in”, there is already a problem. You won’t be on the trail until after 9am. The
average hiker takes about eight hours to summit. When storms come in, they
generally come in the afternoon. Hikers want to be on their way down
before noon. When you are done with the hike on day two, you will need to spend
the night in Lone Pine unless you live in Bishop.
There are generally lots of pilgrims on the Whitney trail
since the folks on the John Muir Trail are either beginning or ending their
hike at Whitney too. When you get to "Trail Crest" (13,600’) there are quite a
few backpacks stacked around the area. The JMT folks leave them there to top
out at Whitney which is the southern terminus or beginning of the JMT depending on whether you hike the JMT N-S or S-N. The trail-head at Whitney Portal is at 8,000’ but it
is not a true measure of the climate and conditions on top of Whitney. It can
be more than twenty degrees colder than Whitney Portal on top of Whitney. The
wind chill will make it feel even colder. Once the trail enters Sequoia Park at
trail crest, the wind increases and another layer of clothing is required.
Unfortunately,
it is near this area that the trail narrows to a knife edge in a few places
making it especially dangerous. People have been blown off the trail. Some have
probably fallen from sheer fatigue or died from hypothermia. Anyway, the trail
claims at least one person every year. I was a part of the search team helicoptered
in to look for Kenneth Wade Brunette in 2009, who fell off the trail to his
death. It may have been storm related. If you have balance issues, stay off this trail.
Knife Edge On Mt. Whitney Trail
People are not really afraid of heights. They are afraid of
edges. No one is afraid of falling off of Denver. There are plenty of edges on
the Whitney trail. There is one short section of guard posts with cables along
the 99 switchbacks. There is a problem with ice buildup on this section and a
very steep drop off along the fence.
The stone shelter on top of Whitney was constructed in 1909
to protect people from lightning strikes and has a wooden floor for the same
purpose. The hut used to have a toilet but it was removed by order of the head
ranger J.D. Swed. He told me he was quite proud of this action.
There used to
be a solar toilet available at trail camp. It was there in 2004 but has been
removed since that time. Now the policy is pack it in and pack it out. When you
pick up your trail permit, you also receive a human waste bag to pack out. I
noticed some bags used and left along the trail. Maybe those individuals were waiting for their mother to pick up after them.
My friend John Shehadey ran the Badwater ultramarathon (135
miles) from Death Valley to Whitney Portal. It is the custom for the finishers
to hike to the top of Whitney AFTER this. John loves to tell the story to
anyone who will listen that he had to stay the night in the stone hut and saw a
Buddhist monk appear off and on during the night. I believe you John since I once saw
a bunch of Scottie Dogs on the trail at about mile 75 while running the Western States 100
mile endurance run.
I have a youtube video of this hike available here: . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPk2ibzZqM4&feature=c4-overview&list=UU0G3jx2PLv6FOw2NM5Aa6Yw