Mid Sierra Musings: September 2018

The Sierra Nevada Mountains: The Palisades

Dale Matson

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Clyde and Middle Palisade Glaciers

If it isn’t the sheep or the eagles, it seems like the mountain/lakes in general draw me back again and again to the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In particular, I love the Palisades and saw and photographed them from a number of different locations each with its own perspective. I am a hiker and backpacker with only a few mountain peaks “bagged”, however I have no photographs of the Palisades from one of the peaks.

The Palisades were named by Josiah Whitney, the chief of the California Geological Survey and are the highest stretch along the entire Sierra range with several “14ers”. North Palisade in the 3rd highest in the Sierra and 4th highest mountain in CA at 14,249'. The mountains separate the California Central Valley watershed to the west from the Owen Valley watershed to the east. The Palisades contain most of the what remains of the Sierra Glaciers.

I viewed them from the south and southwest along the John Muir Trail (JMT) a few years ago when I had no idea what mountains I was looking at. It rained overnight at my campsite in Deer Meadow. As I began my morning climb there was a crispness and clarity to the air with a fog shrouding the Palisades. It was a mystical experience to climb up the “Golden Staircase”, the area above Palisade Lakes, climb over Mather Pass and view them from upper Basin. It was some of the most beautiful and rugged views I experienced along the John Muir Trail which I have hiked in sections over the years.

More recently I photographed them from over Bishop Pass, from the west in Dusy Basin. I have visited Dusy Basin twice now and was not disappointed either time in the views of the Palisades from the west. The 11,000’ basin provides a relatively treeless and uninterrupted granite viewing platform.

The last two years I have had an opportunity to photograph them from the North and South forks of Big Pine Creek. I included a photo from my Brainerd Lake hike along the south fork this past week. The string of beautiful green lakes in the Big Pine Creek Basin are fed by glacial runoff. Temple Craig, a favorite of alpinists, above Second Lake, remains one of my favorite photographs and requires an ultrawide lens to capture the total beauty. A telephoto shot of the Clyde and Middle Palisade Glaciers is available along the north fork trail before it turns north. There are wonderful views along Glacier Lodge Road and McMurray Meadows Road also.

There is an opportunity for “drive-bys” from California Highway 395 between Big Pine and Bishop CA. Depending on the viewing angle, Split Mountain is mostly hidden by Mt. Tinemaha or very evident as one drives along Highway 395. Most of the Palisade shots along Highway 395 require a minimum of a 135mm lens and are best taken in morning light. Finally, on a clear day, there is an excellent pull out viewing vista from the White Mountains to the east of the Sierra as one climbs the highway that takes you to the Bristlecone Pines. I would recommend a tripod, big lens to bring the Palisades closer. The vista also is a good video candidate.

I think the Palisades look their best when adorned with just enough snow to accent their lines but not enough snow to diminish the colors of the granite. I love the color in Split Mountain in particular. It was a difficult day hike that took us to the pond below Split Mountain last year. My best photo there required an ultrawide lens. I hope you will enjoy my photos of one of my favorite Sierra locations.

Left Split Mtn, Center Left Birch Far Right Mt. Jepson

Split, Tinemaha and Birch Mtns.

Split Mtn. Southernmost Of The Palisades

Temple Crag Above 2nd Lake North Fork Big Pine Creek

Northernmost Palisade Mt. Agassiz Dusy Basin

Mt. Galey Left Mount Sill Right

Mt Sill Left Palemonium Peak Far Right Above Palisade Glacier

Palisade Crest left and Mt. Jepson Right

Following Photographs From JMT

Lower Palisade Lake

North Fork Big Pine Creek Trail Clyde and Middle Palisade Glaciers

JMT Near Mather Pass Upper Palisade Lake

JMT Near Deer Creek Campsite

Dusy Basin

Split Mountain Above Pond

Split Mountain JMT Upper Basin

The Thumb Far Left Middle Palisade Right Of Center And Clyde Peak Further Right

I have a Kindle Book on the Palisades here: https://www.amazon.com/Palisades-Sierra-Nevada-Mountains-ebook/dp/B07K5RQC73/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1545395154&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=the+palisades+date+matson

To leave a legacy of beauty for posterity is a lesser gospel but a gospel none the less. Dale+

Dale Matson

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Ambit 3 Route

Garmin Map 64 Route

This is about an 11-mile round trip hike with about 3,000 of gain to 10,200’. If you have already hiked the more popular route along the north fork of Big Pine Creek, this is another route that will take you to a view of the Middle Palisade and Clyde Glaciers as you approach Brainerd Lake. The north fork takes you to a view of the bigger Palisade Glacier. Most of the hike is a good trail except for the many switchbacks that ascend over 1,000’.

This trail is accessed out of the town of Big Pine (14 mile south of Bishop CA). Turn west on Crocker Street which becomes Glacier Lodge Road. Take this road to the end unless you are backpacking. There is a place before this for backpackers to park before you get to the stables. I paid a small parking fee and parked near the Glacier Lodge store. I got a late start and began the route incorrectly. I waded across the south fork and began climbing the road. I had not taken the proper route that crossed the bridge at “First Falls”. Fortunately, I noticed the sign indicating the south fork trail. It was probably a shortcut of sorts if you didn’t mind wet feet.

There is a place along the trail where you will cross the creek from the north to the south side. Go to where the trail ends on the north side and cross there. You may get wet feet! It is also a good place to resupply water if you have a means to purify or filter it. I'm not sure this part can be crossed earlier in the year. It seems as if the switchbacks will never end and you cross some boulder fields. As you look back you begin to see the yellow fall colors begin to appear.

Once you finally top out from the climb, the Glaciers begin to appear along with Middle Palisade, Clyde Peak, The Thumb to the west and possibly Disappointment Peak and Mt. Jepson to the north. As you continue, you will pass a junction sign that will indicate a trail to Willow Lake. Some camp here overnight and continue the next day. Willow Lake can be seen from above later on the Brainerd Lake Trail.

The trail becomes less clear the closer you get to the lake so pay attention. You will cross a small creek on two logs which is also another place for water resupply until you get to the lake. Also, you will pass a muddy pond prior to Brainerd lake. Brainerd Lake, is quite green. This is caused by glacial silt runoff. This is a similar color to the green lakes on the north fork of Big Pine Creek.

I had considered climbing from Brainerd Lake up to Finger Lake (another 600’) which is a wonderful view but it is a steep climb with no trail. I was already tired from my late start. I actually drove from my home in Fresno that morning! I didn’t get back to my truck till nearly 7pm and slept in my truck till morning. I also had to take a 40-minute nap by Tenaya Lake on the way home.