Woodward Park

 Fresno California

36° 51' 53" n 119° 47' 15" w

Dale Matson

Woodward Park is the crown jewel of Fresno city parks. Ralph Woodward donated the majority of the 300+ acres to the city to Fresno in 1968. He intended that the park would be a bird sanctuary and there are several kinds of resident water birds that make Woodward Park their home.  Most of the park is irrigated and maintained. The park has been developed as a multiuse facility. There is a large area dedicated to BMX and mountain biking. There are areas for horseback riding, disc golf, running trails, picnic areas, a fenced dog park, a concert amphitheater and a Japanese garden. There are also several fishing ponds. The San Joaquin River forms the north boundary of the park. The Eaton Trail extends beyond the park and will eventually reach the Dam in Friant.

Over the years, the park has primarily been a “runner’s” park. The annual state cross-country championships have been held at Woodward for several years now. It is not uncommon to see hundreds of runners on a Saturday morning is various size groupings. Most weekly 5 and 10k races are held there also. The annual Two Cities Marathon ends in the park. Many of my Fresno friends met at Woodward and have been running together for years. This will be my 22^nd year of running at the park.

Click On Photographs To Enlarge

Drake Mallard

Canada Goose

Wood Duck

Snowy Egret

More recently, the Tom MacMichael Sr. loop trail was developed on the northernmost area of the park on land donated by the Jensen family. This is in the lower section of the park along the San Joaquin River. There is an additional loop trail north and east more recently constructed. While some mountain bikers use these trails, most have created their own trails along the bluffs below the Eaton Trail.

There is an ongoing attempt to restore this floodplain area to an earlier state. It is about 130’ below the upper portion of the park. There is quite a contrast between the developed and maintained areas of the upper park and the lower area with its thick brush. The running trail travels through the brush and along the river. The lower section is full of surprises for my Airedale and me as we run the lower trails in the early morning. Often there is a pea soup fog in the winter months that reflects my headlamp back into my eyes. It is always about 5 degrees colder below as the colder air settles overnight.

San Joaquin River

I am glad Susie has always been on a leash. There is too much trouble waiting along the way. We have smelled the foul odor of skunk provoked in response to dogs roaming too far from their owners. Susie is an early warning device with her keen sense of smell. Over the years I have learned by the way she responds whether it is deer, coyotes, or even our single mountain lion encounter. We have also seen bobcats, bald eagles, and ospreys, egrets and blue herons. Rabbits scamper ahead of us as we make our way down the trail.

I almost never have a camera with me but today; I took some shots to show what you can see on an average day.

  

Later Life And The Creative Act

Dale Matson

For most of my working life both as a skilled tradesman and professional, I have been a service provider. As a plumber, psychologist and even a priest, my services have been my product. Additionally, someone else has employed me. Things are different now.

I have witnessed in later life that individuals who retire chose one of two paths. Erik Erikson called the final stage of life, “Ego Integrity versus Despair”. What I believe is missing from the description of this later developmental stage is what I would call renewed generativity. I believe there is a creative urge usually associated with and only recognized in an earlier stage.

I saw it with my mentor Dr. Bob Wilson. He retired from Fresno Unified and was asked to develop a program and curriculum to credential Special Education teachers at Fresno Pacific University. He went on to build a Counseling Program and School Psychology program also. He mastered a laptop computer on his final sabbatical and wrote a textbook for counselors.

I have seen this with others. My friend Chuck Freuler envisioned a half marathon between Clovis and Fresno and called it the “Two Cities Half Marathon”. He recruited all the resources to make it happen. He did this at age 73. This year, he won his age group (85 and up) in the Sprint Triathlon World Championships. Another friend, Frantz Weinschenk, wrote his first book at age 75. He is in his 64th year of teaching at Fresno City College and has a weekly radio program.

Anna Mary Robertson Moses (aka Grandma Moses) began painting in her 70’s. Her exhibitions in the 1950’s broke attendance records all over the world. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grandma_Moses

I believe developmental psychologists have missed this creative urge in older folks. Also, many of the performance boundaries have been moved in the last decade. Society has expectations about what is socially appropriate for older adults. It is a kind of glass ceiling. An eighty-year-old man climbed Mt. Everest and another finished the Hawaii Ironman. Helen Klein ran a 4:31 marathon at age 80.

I have said all this to note that in general, people do what society expects of them. For those older adults that create new things and break new ground, they are also breaking barriers erected by prejudice and expectation. What I have seen are people who are individualized and slow to be discouraged by society and increasing physical infirmities.

I have recently published my twelfth book. These books have been the product of research, legwork, photography and writing. I have also learned how to create and format the interior by learning publishing programs and typography. None will win a Pulitzer Prize for literature. Most of the books are about backpacking in eastern Fresno County, which is one of the most beautiful places on earth.

These books are also a ‘turn taking’ of sorts. It is my turn to tell a story. It is a story with perspective. My son asked me the big question the other day. “Why do you do it?” I create as an act of love. I cannot, not create these things.

Kings Canyon: The Backpacker’s Park

 Dale Matson

It may seem odd that I would begin this piece talking about Yosemite alongside Kings Canyon. With over twenty years of trail running, hiking, backpacking and nearly ten years of search and rescue in both locations, I have slowly come to the conclusion that while Yosemite may be the preferred tourist destination, Kings Canyon is the place for backpackers. This is not to say that there is not excellent backpacking in Yosemite. For example, the John Muir Trail travels through 37 miles of Yosemite with the northern terminus of the JMT in Yosemite Valley at Happy Isles.

The primary reasons for the notoriety of Yosemite and the lesser-known status of Kings Canyon is access. There are lots of roads providing access to many of the iconic sights in Yosemite with highway 120 bisecting the entire park. Word class views are available from the windows of an automobile in Yosemite. Conversely, one can drive to only a few of the many magnificent views in Kings Canyon. There is easier access to Yosemite itself from San Francisco for international travelers.

Yosemite was designated a national park in 1890 and Kings Canyon was designated a national park in 1940. Yosemite is better known and more visited. Most of the magnificent photographs of Ansel Adams were taken in Yosemite. The name of John Muir is most associated with Yosemite. Yosemite is nearly twice the size of Kings Canyon but with close to four million visitors annually, Yosemite can be one big traffic jam in July. Even the premier day hike to Half Dome now requires a permit that was introduced to reduce trail traffic and dangerous gridlock on the cables.

So, why is this about Kings Canyon? 75 miles of the JMT is in Kings Canyon National Park. I have completed this 211-mile trail, hiking it in sections over the years. This lack of access to the inner beauty of Kings Canyon, a park like Yosemite, also formed by glaciers, has also preserved much of the pristine beauty. Kings Canyon simply has a different feel about it. Kings Canyon is set up for backpackers with several backcountry rangers stationed along the JMT to assist backpackers. Some of the highest peaks in the Sierras are in Kings Canyon including North Palisade at 14,249’. If you want to see this hidden beauty, you will have to do it on foot unless you are only interested in seeing the Grant Grove of Giant Sequoias. 

There are other sights in Kings Canyon worth visiting by less established trails like East Lake and 60 Lake Basin. Some sights have no trails for access like Gardiner Basin. There are two great rivers in Kings Canyon, the Kings River and the San Joaquin. They have carved deep gashes in granite providing awe-inspiring views for the traveler. There are also trails with wonderful views along Bubb’s Creek. The ‘roads’ of Kings Canyon are its trails.  This photo essay is an ode to the beauty of this wild and beautiful place.

This book is available now in color Kindle download and has been submitted for Publication and should be available later this week from Amazon Books           

Kearsarge Pass Trail To Glen Pass

Dale Matson

While the border of Kings Canyon Park is at Kearsarge Pass, it is useful to initially talk about the trailhead (9,200’). The trailhead is located in Onion Valley, with the nearest town being a 15 mile drive from Independence. There is ample parking, restrooms and potable water at the trailhead.

The hike in is on a busy trail with a mix of backpackers and day hikers headed to one of the lakes along the five mile trail. Some JMT folks are looking to resupply for the final time southbound, in Independence.

This can be a hot five mile ascent of about 2,500’ and there are only three water sources with easy access. The trail crosses a creek below Little Pothole Lake. The trail passes close to the shore of Gilbert Lake and finally, there is a creek near the trail that heads to Flower Lake. Wherever you decide to resupply, plan on having lots of water when you reach Kearsarge Pass, especially if you are taking the northern leg of the Kearsarge Pass Trail. Once again, be on the lookout for bighorn sheep in this area too.

Mt. Gould

When you reach Kearsarge Pass, carefully take in the wonderful view. Facing west, Mt Gould is directly above on the right. Joseph LeConte named it for his friend Wilson S. Gould. Behind is the vast Owens River Valley. To the southwest are the Kearsarge Pinnacles and the Kearsarge Lakes. Glen Pass is about five miles from here.

The Kearsarge Pass trail descends as it travels west. After about half a mile the trail splits into two parallel legs. The northern leg continues above the southern leg, which dives down toward Kearsarge Lakes. This section of trail is a gradual downhill as it passes about Bullfrog Lake, there is a great view of Vidette Peak (12,539’) to the south of Bullfrog Lake.

Bullfrog Lake

Closer View Of Bullfrog Lake

Vidette Peak

The trail meets the JMT and turns northward. Near this point, the trail begins to climb again over 11,000’ before passing Charlotte Lake 600’ below. As you pass, if you look carefully, you can see the ranger cabin along the eastern shore near the north end of the lake. You also pass Charlotte Dome west of the trail, with it’s distinctive concave shape.

Charlotte Lake

Charlotte Dome

It is popular for climbers. I passed an all female climbing team headed back toward Kearsarge Pass after their successful ascent.

I don’t know why but it seems like the toughest climb for me of the JMT passes is the last 1,000’ of trail to Glenn Pass. The climb seems relentless and I have to stop and rest in a few places. The view, once again, is wonderful. The view of Rae Lakes to the north is world class.

Looking North Toward Rae Lakes From Glen Pass

Kings Canyon Park:The Bubb’s Creek Trail

Wilderness Permit Station At Road's End

The Trailhead for the Bubb’s Creek trail is at Road’s End. This is literally the end of Highway 180 in Cedar Grove. There is a wilderness permit station at the trailhead, which is the lowest point in the trail at about 5,000’. Bubb’s Creek flows into the South Fork of the King’s River. Some of the other Kings Canyon trails come off from the Bubb’s Creek Trail including the Sphinx Creek, Wood’s Creek, East Lake and Center Basin Trails. To the east (upstream), it turns south near Lower Vidette Meadow (9,600’). It is a trail with a generally gradual climb except for switchbacks soon after the Baily Bridge at about 2.5 miles and again after Junction Meadow.

My experience with this trail is that there are not too many views, other than the Sphinx and Mt. Bago, until after Junction Meadow (12 miles). This is because you are still deep both in the woods and in the canyon. Even a Satellite Phone does not have connectivity in these areas.  There is however, lots of wildlife including coyotes, deer, bears and even Bighorn Sheep at the higher elevations. I have seen more bears between Road’s End and Junction Meadow than the rest of the park combined. Most of the time, along the trail, there is ready access to Bubb’s Creek for water.

At Lower Vidette Meadow, the Bubb’s Creek trail merges with the north and southbound JMT. The creek continues south (upstream) toward Forester Pass with the headwaters above tree line at about 11,300’.

The Sphinx

Mt. Bago

Bubbs Creek

Author

At Junction Meadow, I  turn south, cross Bubb’s Creek and head to East Lake (9,472’). I did this hike in 2012 as a day hike from Road’s End. It is about 27 miles round trip.

Crossing Bubb's Creek Late In Season!

I have tried to get to East Lake on three different occasions. In order to cross Bubb's Creek, it has to be a low snow year in the Sierras and it is necessary to cross in late summer. Otherwise the depth and flow rate is too dangerous to attempt a crossing. I lost the trail near the creek on the return trip and had to retrace my steps to find it again.

Bridge Over East Creek

    

East Lake

Bubb's Creek With Junction Peak In the Back Along The JMT

Kings Canyon: The Backpacker’s Park

Dale Matson

The Sphinx 

It may seem odd that I would begin this piece talking about Yosemite alongside Kings Canyon. With over twenty years of trail running, hiking, backpacking and nearly ten years of search and rescue in both locations, I have slowly come to the conclusion that while Yosemite may be the preferred tourist destination, Kings Canyon is the place for backpackers. This is not to say that there is not excellent backpacking in Yosemite. For example, the John Muir Trail travels through 37 miles of Yosemite with the northern terminus of the JMT in Yosemite Valley at Happy Isles.

The primary reasons for the notoriety of Yosemite and the lesser-known status of Kings Canyon is access. There are lots of roads providing access to many of the iconic sights in Yosemite with highway 120 bisecting the entire park. Word class views are available from the windows of an automobile in Yosemite. Conversely, one can drive to only a few of the many magnificent views in Kings Canyon. There is easier access to Yosemite itself from San Francisco for international travelers.

Yosemite was designated a national park in 1890 and Kings Canyon was designated a national park in 1940. Yosemite is better known and more visited. Most of the magnificent photographs of Ansel Adams were taken in Yosemite. The name of John Muir is most associated with Yosemite. Yosemite is nearly twice the size of Kings Canyon but with close to four million visitors annually, Yosemite can be one big traffic jam in July. Even the premier day hike to Half Dome now requires a permit that was introduced to reduce trail traffic and dangerous gridlock on the cables.

So, why is this about Kings Canyon? 75 miles of the JMT is in Kings Canyon Park. I have completed this 211-mile trail, hiking it in sections over the years. This lack of access to the inner beauty of Kings Canyon, a park also formed by glaciers, has also preserved much of the pristine beauty. Kings Canyon simply has a different feel about it. Kings Canyon is set up for backpackers with several backcountry rangers stationed along the JMT to assist backpackers. Some of the highest peaks in the Sierras are in Kings Canyon including North Palisade at 14,249’.

If you want to see this hidden beauty, you will have to do it on foot unless you are only interested in seeing the Grant Grove of Giant Sequoias. After the JMT, the second most famous backpacking route in the Sierra Nevada’s is Rae Lakes, a 46 mile Loop, that begins as a ‘walk in’ from Road’s End in Cedar Grove.

Climbing Up To Cotter Col.

View Into Gardiner Basin

There are other sights in Kings Canyon worth visiting by less established trails like East Lake and 60 Lake Basin. Some sights have no trails for access like Gardiner Basin. There are two great rivers in Kings Canyon, the Kings River and the San Joaquin. They have carved deep gashes in granite providing awe-inspiring views for the traveler. There are also trails with wonderful views along Bubb’s Creek and Woods Creek. I hope you will find the time to visit this wonderful place. 

  Bubbs Creek

   East Lake