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Friday, September 4, 2015

The Good Shepherd: Dr. John Wehausen



Dale Matson

 Dr. Wehausen

“The good shepherd lays down his life for the sheep.” (John 10:11b, NIV)

I have a previous article I wrote about the Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep Foundation here. http://midsierramusing.blogspot.com/2014/12/sierra-nevada-bighorn-sheep-foundation.html

John, the director of the Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep Foundation, was scheduled to do a Mt. Langley unit herd count beginning the last day of August and had just finished the Olancha Peak herd count. He was kind enough to invite me along a month ago and I continued hiking/backpacking with the hope I would be able to endure the three-day effort. My goal for a few years now has been to photograph the endangered Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep. What better guide could I have hoped for than the man who heads the organization and has been involved with the restoration of the Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep for over 40 years?

This story is as much about John Wehausen as it is about the sheep for which this Renaissance man has made his life’s work. As an oboe player, he knows Brahms as well as bighorns.  It was his trained eyes and binoculars that found the “rocks with legs” that I photographed.

At age 66, he is as fit a man as I have been with. I was often lagging behind his brisk pace. He was patient outbound as we climbed up from the trailhead. He did most of the talking while I worked on breathing. “The people we select to work with us must be first and foremost mountain people. We can teach them everything else.”

The main limiting factor for our three-day basecamp was access to an adequate water source at this high an elevation. He found a one-inch flow of water and we made camp nearby at about 11,500’. We would partially fill a cup and pour it into a larger container, then filter the water. As we talked, our conversation filled in the details of a life John outlined in a dinner conversation in Bishop CA where he resides. The dinner group consisted of my wife Sharon, Virginia Chadwick and her husband, John and me.

John can be seen as a kind of wilderness visionary like Theodore Solomons or John Muir. We talked at length about Sierra mountain men like Norman Clyde and Orland Bartholomew.  I see John  as more of a St. Francis who heard the Voice of Christ from the cross. “Rebuild My Church”.  John is as much of a restorationist as he is a conservationist. As a graduate student at The University of Michigan he began this bighorn sheep restoration quest. Today, there are about 600 bighorn sheep in all the herd units scattered along the Sierra crest from Yosemite south to Olancha Peak. Now it is a matter of building each of the herds to sustainable critical mass. John has taken care to relocate sheep in a manner that avoids inbreeding. Their primary enemies are disease from domestic sheep and predation by mountain lions. Their primary defense is their extreme home range elevation and their excellent vision.
   
Like St. Francis, John is a minimalist, shunning the elaborate and ornate. He had a patch sewn into the back of his shirt reminding me once again of St. Francis. His well-worn ancient Dana Design backpack is filled with old stuff including a seasoned spotting scope encased in an old wool sock. He parked his nondescript sedan facing downhill on Horseshoe Meadows Road so he could jump-start it coasting down Horseshoe Meadows Road if the battery failed. His wilderness home is a Bibler Bivy Sack that is no longer made. John told me that “Bibler the man” lives in Bishop.

Our first day after we set up camp, we walked uphill a ways. Using his binoculars, John spotted a single sheep atop a pile of rocks and I got my first photograph of a bighorn sheep. I must admit that I had come to the mountains as a landscape not a wildlife photographer. My biggest lens was a 70-200mm Sony G e-mount lens. At two pounds, it was also my heaviest lens but I would have been better off with a 400mm plus lens. I would guestimate that we were never closer than half a mile to the sheep.

Our second day, we headed out about 10am and were out till 5pm. We were above 12,000’ much of the day and saw three different groups of sheep amounting to about 20 sheep in all. Bighorn sheep need very little water and get most of the water they consume through the plant material they eat. John is somewhat like his sheep. He drank a quart of water before we began our hike and nothing more till we returned to camp. He is almost as nimble also.

I was amazed how high my pulse was even resting at this elevation. My resting pulse is usually in the mid 40s but here, it was double that. My Ambit showed about one third less available oxygen at this altitude.

John offered me some of his homemade soup prepared from vegetables he grew in his garden. I was glad for the warming effect. At our base camp altitude, the cool air came before sundown. I returned a favor by lending him my fuel canister when his partially full canister unexpectedly ran out of fuel.

The view of Olancha Peak and the Cottonwood Lakes drainage was a wonderful setting for our basecamp. We were spared the smoke that filled the Owens Valley from the Rough Fire that began in Kings Canyon from a lightning strike. This is the largest wildfire in California history and at the time of this writing, is only 25% contained.

On the third day, I opted to rest, recover and walk around taking photographs while John left camp to coordinate the Langley Herd count by radio with other spotters located in and around Cottonwood Lakes. He located some additional sheep including a couple of rams. He returned about 2:30pm and we broke camp by 3pm. We headed back with the steepest descents helped by creating our own switchbacks. John was once again patient and waited for me when I began to lag behind. I believe the sheep taught him patience.
Click to Enlarge Photographs



 First Sighting


Crop
White Mountain Peak Center Background 14,252'
 Sheep Scat
Olancha Peak
Looking East At The Inyo Mountains
 John Spotting Sheep
 Author
 Elevation
 Sheep Territory
 John Surrounded By The Vastness 
 Sheep Territory




 Cottonwood Lakes Below Our Campsite


 Our Meager Water Source
 Cropped Photo Of Sheep



Smokey Sundown Over Mt. Whitney

I am still processing this experience as I reflect on the three days spent with John. His parting words were, “Let’s stay in touch”. Mine were, “God Bless from one shepherd to another.” Thanks again John.     


Sunday, August 30, 2015

Miyuki Harwood (62) Found Alive After Nine Days


Dale Matson

Miyuki was on a Sierra Club backpacking trip in the Sierra National Forest. They were on a day hike to Horsehead Lake (10,394’) when she became separated from the group. The lake is about 20 miles west of Courtright Reservoir near the Blackcap Basin. This area abuts the western boundary of Kings Canyon National Park. The search was a multiagency effort with the Fresno County Sheriff’s Office in command of the search.

She was injured with broken bones and could not walk. She was able to crawl to a water source where she could use a filter but had no food for the nine days she was lost.

The nine-day search ended with searchers hearing her whistle for help. Despite the ongoing smoke problems from the Rough Fire nearby, the CHP helicopter was able to find a path through to land and take her to the hospital in Fresno. The smoke also hindered the insertion of searchers who had to hike in 20 miles to the search area because the helicopters could not fly through the smoke.

I was not a part of this search because of health reasons but applaud my Fresno County SAR teammates for their effort and persistence under difficult circumstances in high altitude, smoke and challenging terrain.

It is always rewarding to hear of someone being found alive after such a long period and searchers will remain optimistic, keeping this experience in mind during future searches. Thanks also to the other agencies who participated. A search of this magnitude for a lost individual under these extreme circumstances, once again, demonstrates the value law enforcement officers and civilian volunteers put on human lives.

Here is a link to the story from the Fresno Bee. http://www.fresnobee.com/news/local/article32745777.html.


Kearsarge Basin


Dale Matson

About 7 miles from Onion Valley To Bullfrog Lake
About 2,500’ Of Altitude Gain To Kearsarge Pass (11,709’)

Kearsarge Basin reminds me a bit of Humphrey’s Basin. They both have water much of the way on the civilized climbs to their respective passes. Each climb includes several lakes. For those who want a more leisurely pace to Kearsarge Basin, there are camping places at these lakes. I say “civilized” when compared to say, Taboose Pass. They are both “Trans Sierra” hikes that follow eastward flowing creeks. In this case the trail follows Independence Creek.

Kearsarge pass was named after a silver mine and a Union ship that sank the Confederate ship the Alabama. That is how the Alabama Hills (A Confederate Ship) got the name. The pass is a favorite of folks who are resupplying others on the John Muir Trail (JMT) and PCT. It is also a good way to get to the Rae Lakes Loop instead of coming east from Road’s End in Cedar Grove. Those who want to do a trans Sierra hike in one day go from Onion Valley to Road’s End in Kings Canyon Park. Sometimes two groups will head out. One will come from Road’s End and the other from Onion Valley. They will meet along the way, switch car keys and drive out at the other end.

This is the most popular pass over the Sierras with hikers and backpackers and one where you might see the endangered Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep from the Mt. Baxter herd unit. The most convenient wilderness permit station for multi day hikes is in Lone Pine.  Make certain you resupply with filtered/purified water by Flower Lake. Heart and Pothole Lakes are too far below the trail to be practical sources.

When you reach Kearsarge Pass, the view will be both impressive and expansive. As you face west, Mt. Gould will be on your immediate right. You will be able to see the Kearsarge Pinnacles towering above Kearsarge Lakes. Ansel Adams has a photograph including both. Further west, you can see Bullfrog Lake that remains closed to camping but has excellent photographic opportunities.

After leaving the pass, you will come to a trail junction. Although the two trails parallel each other, the northern trail travels about 400’ above the trail to the south. The northern trail is intended for those folks intending to meet up with the JMT/PCT and head north over Glen Pass. The southern trail is intended for those wanting to go to Kearsarge Lakes, meet up with the southbound JMT/PCT or those headed to the popular Charlotte Lake. There is a wilderness ranger station at that location. Charlotte Lake is visible from the [upper trail] to Glen Pass.


Although I have passed above Kearsarge Basin on my way to Rae Lakes on the upper trail twice, I did have the opportunity to take the lower trail on my way to Center Basin.

 Click On Photographs To Enlarge




 Independence Creek
Gilbert Lake
 Flower Lake

 Heart Lake
 Big Pothole Lake
 Kearsarge Pinnacles And Lakes
 Bullfrog Lake In Distance








 Trail Heading To Bullfrog Lake



 Bullfrog Lake


 East Vidette Left Center
 Small Unnamed Lake West Of Bullfrog lake



   Sierra Resupply
Bullfrog Lake From Upper Trail