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Monday, August 30, 2021

Denali National Park: 8 Hour Bus Tour


Dale Matson

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Mt. Denali

We took the bus tour on August 21st to the mile 62 turn around at Stony Overlook (4,700’). Don, our bus driver was a treasure trove of information and a bit of a soothsayer. He predicted that the ongoing landslide at Polychrome pass would eventually change the route. As it turned out he was correct and the road was closed on August 25th near Polychrome Pass. The reports did not state when the road would be open again beyond the pass but those who were located beyond the pass would be relocated by the NPS.

The day before, we drove to mile 15 (Savage River) in our rental car. That is a far as you can drive into the park in a car. The following day we took bus #2 and had snack bags on the bus seats. We had keen eyes on our bus and with Don as driver, we were able to stop for lots of wildlife along the way. The busses are equipped with drop-down TV screens that magnify animals where they are located which was helpful for those of us photographers in locating the animals. I missed the Dall Sheep however. There were several bathroom rest stops along the way, and for photography out of the busses.

Don noted when we passed a bicyclist, that the park people jokingly referred to them as “meals on wheels”. 

He also noted that there are as many moose in Denali as Caribou but the moose prefer thick vegetation and are harder to spot than the Caribou. We saw one large group of Caribou migrating to another location in the park. In all, I saw grizzly bears, willow ptarmigan and moose in addition to the fresh snow on the mountains. When Mt. Denali is in view (only 1/3 of the time) Stony Overlook is a good place to view it from. There are two turn outs that you can drive to about nine miles in, where you can see Mt. Denali when it is clear. The 2nd turnout has a metal sign that points to Denali.

We stayed just outside the park two nights along the Nenana River and the morning of the 3rd day drove back into the park. We wanted one last try for a clear view of Mt. Denali before we headed south to Anchorage. We were treated to a clear view of Mt. Denali. There is also a north and south vista which includes Mt. Denali along the George Parks Highway (Alaska Highway #3) as you head south to Anchorage.

I used a Sony A7R4 and the Sony 100-400 GM lens. It is a 61mp camera that can crop to 600mm at 24mp. I also used the newer A7C which is the size and weight of the original Sony A7 but has image stabilization and a better sensor. I paired this with the relatively new small 50mm f2.5 lens. For the animals 400-600mm is most suitable.

Don noted that our day trip only showed about 1/10th of the 6 million acres of the park, which is about the size of Massachusetts.















































  


Sunday, August 29, 2021

The Valley Of Ten Thousand Smokes Tour


Dale Matson

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Katmai National Park is accessed only by plane or boat and has two major features we visited. If you are staying at Brooks Camp, certainly the brown bears at Brooks Falls are worth a visit. The fishing in also exceptional with as many fishermen and women as bear watchers. We had seen the bears for three days and also wanted to take the bus trip to the Valley of 10,000 Smokes. 

We signed up for the bus the day before we went. When you think of Alaska, you think wet and green but the Valley Of 10,000 Smokes is mostly brown. It is the result of volcanic ash spewed in the 1912 eruption of Novarupta which had 10 times the ash as the 1980 St. Helens eruption and covered 40 square miles. In some places in the valley the ash was 700’ deep. Roofs collapsed in Kodiak from the weight of the ash there. The area was made a national monument in 1918.

The bus itself is unique and was designed and built for the journey to the valley. It is a has high ground clearance, full-time four-wheel drive and a 2-speed transfer case for the three stream crossings. It has an I.H. diesel engine.

The round trip is about eight hours with an opportunity for a 3.5-mile round trip hike down 800’ to the Ukak River. You can also order a lunch for the pavilion at the turn around point.


Hike Route


We also saw two bull moose in a meadow and a sow grizzly with two, 2-year-old cubs on the road. We followed them for more than a mile before the mother led the two cubs off the road. 

We had a light drizzle for much of the day and I would recommend rain pants in addition to a rain jacket, since the narrow hike trail winds through vegetation. If you are not fit, I would not recommend this hike. Maurice (“Mo”) rode and hiked with us to offer lots of information on flora and fauna. Thanks to our driver also. 

    The hike photos were with a Sony A7C with a 24mm 2.8 lens.

Additional photos were shot with the Sony A7R4 with the 100-400mm GM lens.  
























































There is a YouTube video also of this.