Dale Matson
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Katmai National Park is accessed only by plane or boat and has two major features we visited. If you are staying at Brooks Camp, certainly the brown bears at Brooks Falls are worth a visit. The fishing in also exceptional with as many fishermen and women as bear watchers. We had seen the bears for three days and also wanted to take the bus trip to the Valley of 10,000 Smokes.
We signed up for the bus the day before we went. When you think of Alaska, you think wet and green but the Valley Of 10,000 Smokes is mostly brown. It is the result of volcanic ash spewed in the 1912 eruption of Novarupta which had 10 times the ash as the 1980 St. Helens eruption and covered 40 square miles. In some places in the valley the ash was 700’ deep. Roofs collapsed in Kodiak from the weight of the ash there. The area was made a national monument in 1918.
The bus itself is unique and was designed and built for the journey to the valley. It is a has high ground clearance, full-time four-wheel drive and a 2-speed transfer case for the three stream crossings. It has an I.H. diesel engine.
The round trip is about eight hours with an opportunity for a 3.5-mile round trip hike down 800’ to the Ukak River. You can also order a lunch for the pavilion at the turn around point.
We also saw two bull moose in a meadow and a sow grizzly with two, 2-year-old cubs on the road. We followed them for more than a mile before the mother led the two cubs off the road.
We had a light drizzle for much of the day and I would recommend rain pants in addition to a rain jacket, since the narrow hike trail winds through vegetation. If you are not fit, I would not recommend this hike. Maurice (“Mo”) rode and hiked with us to offer lots of information on flora and fauna. Thanks to our driver also.
The hike photos were with a Sony A7C with a 24mm 2.8 lens.
Additional photos were shot with the Sony A7R4 with the 100-400mm GM lens.
There is a YouTube video also of this.
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